High quality also for valuable oilseeds

From the cold squeezing of valuable seeds it is possible to get oils with excellent chemical and sensorial characteristics. Hence, it is now possible to obtain crack hazelnut, pistachio, pine nut and almond oils

by Duccio Morozzo della Rocca

We are not used to speak about the relationship between oilseeds and quality in a positive way. All the same there are some interesting exceptions that demonstrate the great potential of the rare seeds of our productions: from the Igp hazelnut from Piedmont to the Pistachios from Bronte.

Mattia Pariani, one of the most active producer and innovator in the extraction of high quality oilseeds, promoted the last July, 13th a meeting about the quality and the protection of the oilseeds biodiversity. The meeting was organized at the Gastronomic Science University in Pollenzo, Piedmont, in cooperation with Slow Food and with the Agronomy University of Turin.

From the cold squeezing of rare seeds, says Mattia Pariani, it is possible to get oils with excellent chemical and sensorial characteristics. We interviewed him to get some more information about this interesting topic.

Mr. Pariani, we are used to consider oilseeds as cheap and not interesting products. From your researches a new and different reality is actually emerging.
You see, it is a paradox. In Italy we have rare seeds among the best in the world; all the same, those are not emphasized because of the perception of high quality oilseeds does not exist. I think to the pistachios from Bronte, to the Igp hazelnut, to the Roman almond from the Noto valley or to the pine nuts from San Rossore. Starting from such seeds, through cold squeezing, it is possible to obtain oils that are really appreciated abroad, also by the most famous chefs.

As a matter of fact, they are very special products.
Yes! They are superior products, even if not taken in consideration by the marketing. The most important thing is the raw material. Hence, my aim is to suggest the idea that an oilseed can be more expensive that an olive oil and that in can be used to exalt the tastes. Moreover, we obtained extraordinary oils also from the chemical composition point of view: high concentrations of oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid and of polyphenols, as well.

How does the extraction process works?
We begin with a toasting of seeds, which is fundamental for giving a proper aroma to the product, followed by a cold squeezing. The oily must is then filtered, decanted, and bottled in dark anti-UV glass. Such oils are even more sensitive to light than olive oils.

Who is the typical buyer of these products?
Mainly the top category restaurants and very selected deli that can effort the costs of these products. But there are also customers which are tight-knit to tradition. E.g., in Piedmont some restaurants employ the hazelnut oil for their preparations, as was in the post war epoch in these areas.

Which future can you see for rare oilseeds?
People constantly look for variety and novelty, for example by trying oilseeds from all over the world. I think to the Pecan nut, the Macadamia nut or to Argan and Licurì oils.

by Duccio Morozzo della Rocca
07 December 2009 Teatro Naturale International n. 11 Year 1

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