Soave: the most specialized and densely vineyards in Europe

Together with Chianti, Soave was the first zone in Italy to be recognized in 1931 by royal decree as a producer of fine wines. The story of this terroir and his vine: Garganega

by Duccio Morozzo della Rocca

The Soave denomination is one of the most important appellations in the wide panorama of D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. wines of the Veneto region in north-west Italy.

Nestled in the foothills of the Lessini Mountains in the eastern part of the Province of Verona, this tiny wine region owes its large production success to its vines, the most specialized and densely planted in Europe. Because of strong traditional links between this area’s viticulture and terroir, the region’s vineyards have remained practically unchanged for the past hundred years.

Together with Chianti, Soave was the first zone in Italy to be recognized in 1931 by royal decree as a producer of fine wines. This document enclosed the borders of the production zones. For Soave these borders actually coincide with those fixed by the current production regulations for the denomination Soave Classico.

Although the delimited area is small – less than 10,000 hectares – the vineyards of the Soave and Soave Classico D.O.C. cover almost 6,900 hectares. Here you will find several styles of Soave, each one distinctly tied to the nature of the terroir, to its history, and to the human element that lies behind it.

For these reasons the Consortium of Soave wine, founded in 1970, has decided to define and categorize this biodiversity, in order to characterize the differences between these wines in their production and in their marketing.
All Soave denominations are organized with the aim of quality and differentiating vineyards by climate, elevation, and location. Denominations are also defined by a quality pyramid which has provided new concrete production guidelines for producers, and has aided greatly in communicating wine quality to consumers. At the top of this strata is the Soave superiore docg, the ultimate selection of tradition and quality. Below it, lie two hillside-produced Soave: Soave Classico, obtained in the historical area, and Colli Scaligeri. At the base of the pyramid the Soave DOC, the most convenient wine for quality and price.
The Soave system
Over the years, the strength of the Soave production system has benefited significantly from creating an efficient cooperative of wineries, representing around 75% of Soave production. The cooperatives play the strategic role of promoting the region, organizing the labour market, and organizing prices. These prices also act as a point of reference for the rest of the grapes on the market.
The remaining 25% represents mainly family run small and medium-sized agricultural estates. Growing in numbers and in quality, these operations have aided in boosting Soave’s image as increasingly high-quality wines (including crus), characterised by their unique strong personality.

The wine
The rules state, that Soave must be produced from at least 70% Garganega grapes, a cultivar with a weak aroma but with strong odours of almond and white flowers. The grape’s development is lengthy, ripening in October when it produces a hard red-yellow skin.
The remaining 30% of Soave is made from Trebbiano di Soave, Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay grapes.
Taste
At first glance, Soave has the color of fresh straw with the appearance of pale-green flecks when held to the light. It’s delicate and slightly vegetale perfume conjures images of sambuca and hawthorne blossoms. In the mouth its flavors work harmoniously, creating a refreshing and balanced wine slightly reminiscent of bitter almonds.
Numbers
The region boasts a total of 3.000 individual Soave growers. Over time the denomination has experienced serious fragmentation, accentuated by the fact that individually owned plots tended by a single grower have often become spread across various locations. To the untrained eye this is not evident when looking at the hillsides themselves entirely covered in vines.

Every year 50 millions bottles of Soave D.O.C., 17 millions of Soave Classico and almost a million of Soave Superiore and Recioto (both of which are D.O.C.G.) are released. Based on figures from 2004, the equivalent value of the entire Soave system is close to 150 million Euros.

Point of view with…
Director of the Soave Consortium Aldo Lorenzoni

- What do you see as the future for the consortium, an increase in exports or domestic consumption?
Even if exports remain primary, our producers are working to expand the Italian national market.

- Regarding the exportation, do you feel more protected since all the Doc, Docg, Igt are now in a common Dop/Igp register?
I believe there are no big changes for the traditional DOC with a geographic name, but as for some wines with a specific method of production or variety, they would probably be more protected.

- Is Soave confined by tradition or opened to innovation?
Soave’s strength as a DOC is based on tradition and esteem. Up until now the research completed, a result of regulating the DOC, has aimed at characterizing the different biodiversities living in a defined area. Innovation in the cellar processes becomes primary to realize this.

Matches
These wines match well with seafood and rice salads, white meats, risotto al "nero di seppia", and risotto al Soave. In its home region, Soave is almost always accompanied by the traditionals minestre di verdure, a soup containing beans, breadcrumbs, and typical Veronese salumi.

by Duccio Morozzo della Rocca
02 March 2009 Teatro Naturale International n. 2 Year 1

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