Parmigliano Reggiano, an eight centuries years old cheese

Parmigiano Reggiano is strictly bound to its place of origin. Both the production of milk and its transformation into cheese take place in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and Bologna

by T N

When it is said that Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese has been "a great cheese for at least eight centuries", it is not only highlighting its ancient origin. Indeed, it means pointing out that this cheese today is still identical to how it was eight centuries ago, having the same appearance and the same extraordinary fragrance, made in the same way, in the same places, with the same expert ritual gestures.

According to Platina, 15th century Humanist from Cremona: "Today, in Italy, there are two types of cheese that compete for supremacy: “marzolino”, given this name by the Etruscans because it is made in the Etruria region in the month of March, and Parmigiano in the Cisalpine region, also called “maggengo”, from the month of May".
Another quotation is taken from a book by Francesco Maria Grapaldo, who comments on passages by Vitruvio and other Latin authors: "Parmigiano Cheese: in our time, in Italy, supremacy is given to the quality of Parmigiano cheese, whereas in the past the abundance of wool was boasted. Hence the couplet: ...they are the noble fruit of milk from Parma..".

These elements are rarely found anywhere else and never are they found in the same unrepeatable composition: the geological formation of the soil, the particularity of breeding farms, a balanced combination of agri-geo-environmental and human circumstances that enable the production of a valuable milk - even differing from areas geographically close - the only milk that can originate an exceptional cheese, that can withstand a very slow maturation which enriches it with inimitable flavours.

It is instead the human beings' exclusive merit to have proudly preserved Parmigiano-Reggiano's noble aspects down through the centuries and to not have surrendered to the temptation of simplifying functions and activities, not even today when everything is technology and automation.

Obviously, also the recent history of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese has its important chapters; it is essentially the history of how the approximately 450 small artisan dairies of the typical area (that encompasses about nine thousand milk producers) has obtained, by way of Law, the recognition of their determination in preserving the processing method and the very high qualitative level of the product; it is the story of how the guarantee of genuineness of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is now an absolute guarantee, thanks to the precise rules, applied with strict conformity self-discipline and control. But this story must be told: facts speak for themselves, as it is shown in the following pages that illustrate the situation of certification of the current production process, worthy of such a noble and ancient past.

Parmigiano-Reggiano is strictly bound to its place of origin. Both the production of milk and its transformation into cheese take place in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna to the west of the Reno River and Mantua to the east of the Po River.
The secret of such goodness originates in the place of origin, in the natural feed, and in the high quality milk with no additives. During the long aging process, natural fermenting agents in the milk give the cheese its particular flavor and texture, in other words, its typicality.

The verb “to make” is absolutely correct in this case because Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is not just manufactured, but “it is made” using same typical and genuine ingredients: the precious milk from the area of origin, fire, rennet, the expertise of old methods and the skill and knowledge of cheese masters.
Then, it is aged naturally for two years or more; however, this implies a great deal of effort because cheese wheels must be brushed and turned continually, they must be taken care of, supervised and inspected day after day to assure their compliance with the rigorous maturation standard. Aging also means risk and trepidation because the miracle of a perfect maturation is essentially determined by nature’s very own slow rhythm.

Origin: Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium