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Shanghai, return flight

Even at the Shanghai Expo the Italian gastronomy can confront with an ancient history and culture by transforming itself without disowning its origins, always drawing from a beauty model



I’m just back from the Expo of Shanghai with a conviction, some images in my mind and an impression.
The Italian pavilion showed well the things that we can do better, i.e. the things that express talent where the experience is not perturbed by imagination, but the other way down happens.

The Italian talent can face with an ancient history and culture by transforming itself without disowning its origins, always drawing from a beauty model. I’m referring to fashion, food, music and cars: there was for instance an amazing Isotta Fraschini, as wonderful as a new Ferrari. Perhaps for this reason we can still hold.

The only niggle is that our pavilion looked a bit static to me, for instance in comparison to the Spanish one. Spain was told through a huge maxi screen that projected dances and bulls, in an incredibly impressing effect.

The same target of catching people’s attention was got by China where the images of ancient engravings toke life, merging the past and the present.

I took part, with other chefs, in the Milan Week, but I found some time to take a dinner in the most ancient restaurant of Shanghai, more than 200 year old, in a forest of skyscrapers.

I would have liked to taste the Pekinese duck again that I was taught by a Chinese cook in my restaurant 30 years ago.

A joyful and imperial dish. You have to cook the duck in two times, pumping up the carcase to detach the skin, that is served crispy and tasty aside the meat. This made me think to a new way to serve the chicken, scalloping it in front of the clients. Sliced and not halved.

by Gualtiero Marchesi
02 august 2010, Food & Fun > Gastronomy

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